AUTOMATIC TIMEKEEPER

This Standalone Hardware device ( Computer not required ) will ring school bell at per-scheduled times of day( all periods ) on each day, of the week. Typically, COM time switch can used to ring school bells . It can also be used for other applications where you want a sound to play at preset times.

Features :

• Plays School bell at preset times.
• Schedule times for automatic play on each day of the week ( you can skip days of week for each programme )
• The current day’s play times can easily be changed if required.
• Easy to use for day to day operation.
• 30 different program options
• Stand alone device – no computer or any other hardware required.
• Simple 3-button user programming with dip switches
• 12 or 24 hour format.
• Large LCD display
• External bell ringing
• Stores Bell timing for the entire week.
• Needs to be programmed only once.
• Highly visible clock display with day indication.
• Easy programming of bell timings with bell period.
• Programmable bell .
• Easy to program.
  

Benefits :

• Plays bells at preset times.
• No need to assign a person for ringing bell every time
• Accuracy to timings
• No manual intervention
• Saves man power and money
• Eeasy programming with the help of manual.

AUTOMATIC SCHOOL BELL SYSTEM

Learn Interfacing DS3231 RTC Module in Arduino

Setup and display the time of DS3231 on Serial Monitor. Also, integrating Adafruit RTC Library in Arduino IDE.

EasyProtip1.5 hours4,659

Things used in this project

Hardware components
	Arduino UNO & Genuino UNO	×	1
	DS3231 Real Time Clock Module	×	1
	Jumper wires (generic)	×	1
Software apps and online services
	Arduino IDE

Story

Currently, we are using DS3231 RTC Module and Arduino UNO board. First, let’s start with the basics of DS3231 Real Time Clock Module.

Operating Voltage: 3.3 – 5V

Current: 15mA

Accuracy: ±2ppm at 0°C to +40°C and ±3.5ppm at -40°C to +85°C

Digital Temp Sensor Output: ±3°C Accuracy

Alarms: Two times of a day

Battery Backup for continuous timekeeping

Integrating Adafruit RTC Library in Arduino IDE.

• Download Adafruit RTC Library Zip file from this link: https://github.com/adafruit/RTClib/archive/master.zip

• Go to Sketch > Include library > Add .zip Library

• Select the downloaded zip file

• If Library is successfully added, Arduino IDE will show “Library added to your libraries. Check Include Library menu” on the status bar.

For more information about Adafruit RTClib, Click here.

Circuit Time

Make a circuit as per the given diagram. In Real Time Clock there are six pins available. We will be using only four pins. Connect the pins as below given.

VCC to 5V

GND to Ground

SDA to Arduino SDA pin

SCL to Arduino SCL pin.

Code Time

This is code for DS3231 RTC Module in Arduino. First, we include a necessary library for Real Time Clock. Then we create an array for a day of the week. In setup, the Serial Monitor is begun at 9600 Baud and Date and Time are set according to system time if the time of RTC is not set. In the loop, we fetch current date and time from Real Time Clock and it is displayed in the serial monitor. To reset Real Time Clock, remove all wires from Arduino and also battery from Real Time Clock for 10 seconds. Then reassemble the circuit and upload the program again.

#include <Wire.h> //include Wire.h library
#include "RTClib.h" //include Adafruit RTC library

RTC_DS3231 rtc; //Make a RTC DS3231 object

//Set the names of days
char daysOfTheWeek[7][12] = {"Sunday", "Monday", "Tuesday", "Wednesday", "Thursday", "Friday", "Saturday"};

void setup () {  
 Serial.begin(9600); //Begin the Serial at 9600 Baud
 //Print the message if RTC is not available
 if (! rtc.begin()) {
   Serial.println("Couldn't find RTC");
   while (1);
 }
 //Setup of time if RTC lost power or time is not set
 if (rtc.lostPower()) {
   //Sets the code compilation time to RTC DS3231
   rtc.adjust(DateTime(F(__DATE__), F(__TIME__)));
 }
}

void loop () {
 //Set now as RTC time
 DateTime now = rtc.now();
 //Print RTC time to Serial Monitor
 Serial.println(now.year(), DEC);
 Serial.print('/');
 Serial.print(now.month(), DEC);
 Serial.print('/');
 Serial.print(now.day(), DEC);
 Serial.print(" (");
 Serial.print(daysOfTheWeek[now.dayOfTheWeek()]);
 Serial.print(") ");
 Serial.print(now.hour(), DEC);
 Serial.print(':');
 Serial.print(now.minute(), DEC);
 Serial.print(':');
 Serial.print(now.second(), DEC);
 delay(3000);
}

Upload the code to Arduino

Set components as per the Circuit Diagram and upload the code to the Arduino UNO Board. DS3231 Real Time Clock will provide time to Arduino and it will display in Serial Monitor. Screenshot of the output of Serial Monitor is as below.

Ransom ware: Advice To Ugandans

SECURITY

Mac computers, once considered comparatively safe, were hit this week by “ransomware” for the first time, malicious software that uses encryption to lock users out of their files until they pay a hefty ransom to unlock them.

Some have suggested to simply accept the scourge of ransomware as a fact of digital life. Their recommendation for when the worst happens: just pay up. And the FBI seems to agree.

Not so fast. Instead of asking whether “to pay or not to pay”, we should ask: Is there a way to protect ourselves against ransomware so we don’t have to face that dilemma?

***

Apple blocked the attack soon after it was first reported that ransomware was hidden in a 3rd-party software, the Transmission BitTorrent client installer for OS X.

Still, it’s safe to assume that it will not be the last ransomware to target Macs, nor the last attack to make headlines.

I thought this would be a good time to step back and take a look at the bigger picture. Remind me again, why is it that nobody seems safe from ransomware attacks – not even Mac users?

Source: Beazley Breach Insights 2016 / BBR Services

When we look at how most of these attacks get started, the answer becomes obvious: Traditional web browsers open the door for cyber criminals to drop ransomware on victims’ computers.

This  security weakness of the traditional browser, where it indiscriminately downloads code from the web to the local computer, is all the bad guys need to plant their nefarious programs and hold individual computers – or whole corporate networks – hostage .

Ransomware attacks typically occur in three steps:

• From a website, via a webmail link or as part of the “payload” in an infected file, the malicious program is downloaded to the victim’s computer, without the user’s knowledge.

  This is so easy because it is either hidden in a file, as was the case with the “KeRanger” exploit directed against Apple’s Mac, or behind a link that gets clicked without hesitation.

• The code works in the background, spreading to connected file shares and other computers on the network. After it has propagated, it starts to encrypt files across the file system(s).

• Once the malware has completed its mission, victims will find themselves locked out of their files.  A basic .txt document or a pop-up message will relay the ransom demand, usually with a deadline, to be paid typically with BitCoin.

  With the KeRanger exploit, the hackers offered to decrypt one file as proof that they have the decrypt key.

Reports suggest that the ransomware-infected version of Transmission was downloaded more than 6,500 times before a safe update was posted.

This KeRanger incident comes on the heels of another widely publicized ransomware attack at Hollywood Presbyterian Medical Center in Los Angeles, California. To get back in control of its network, the hospital’s management gave in to the $ 17,000 demand of the criminals.

The official statement from CEO Allen Stefanek amounted to an admission of defeat: “The quickest and most efficient way to restore our systems and administrative functions was to pay the ransom and obtain the decryption key.”

They’re not alone. Lots of victims are paying.

That’s a sad state of affairs. Surely law enforcement has a handle on this type of crime, right?

Good question. In fact, they’ve become a main target of ransomware attacks. Various confirmed reports indicate they’ve been busy paying ransoms as well. Organized cybercrime couldn’t wish for a better business outlook. Ransomware has evolved into one of its most promising revenue sources.

One ransomware program alone, Cryptowall 3.0, is estimated to have earned the bad guys more than $ 325 million from U.S. victims in 2015. Like the organized crime protection rackets of old, these modern-day Internet Sopranos will continue to turn up the heat in the ‘hood.

Without a forceful response, they will rake in even more money.

But there is an option, and it’s the simplest thing ever. It involves the program you’re using at this very moment – the browser.

How to avoid ransomware in the first place:

The Internet browser is designed to connect to a website and download code. Most of the time, it’s good code that draws pictures, helps you to make online purchases, and displays movies. But sometimes it downloads bad code – like  programs that will hold your data for ransom.

How prevent ransomware infections? The solution is to use a different browser than the traditional ones that open the door to ransomware and all the other web-based threats. With Silo, Authentic8’s secure virtual browser, the question whether to pay or not becomes moot.

When you access the web using Silo, ransomware can’t get close to your computer or network, because all web code stays in a secure container in the cloud.  You see an encrypted display of that remote browser – only the pixels.

Silo works just like your normal browser (some say even better), but it keeps your computer perfectly insulated from ransomware and other threats. With Silo, exploits like KeRanger, Cryptowall and any of their brethren on the Mac get locked out cold.

9 Key Things to Know Before You Buy a New Computer In Kampala

Buying a computer is no easy task, and with the cost of many of the machines out on the market today, you want to make sure you’re making the right purchase so you don’t blow your money on something that stops meeting your demands within a year. Not all machines are created equal, and unless you’re pretty familiar with computer hardware, you might have a hard time determining just how unequal they are. Of course, not all computer users’ needs are equal, so you might not need certain things included in a computer, especially not if those features are pushing up the price.

This guide should help you get a better understanding of what all the components of the computer will mean for you and make it easier to decide what you want, need, and which elements to prioritize. That way, you’ll be better equipped to get the right computer for you, and to avoid spending any more money than you must.

1. Desktop or Laptop?

This is probably one of the simplest choices to make, and one that can have a big impact on the overall cost of your computer, including expenses that might not come right at the time of the purchase. In general, if a laptop and desktop are boasting all of the same performance specs, the desktop will be cheaper. It might not make sense, since it’s a bigger piece of hardware, but the ability to cram a lot of components into a small space and the need for a battery is what ups the price of the laptop — notice the premium paid for Apple’s thinner devices.

If you plan on having a steady workstation and don’t need to run around with your for-all-purposes device, consider getting a desktop and saving yourself some money, or spending what your budget allows and getting a computer with higher specs. An added benefit of a desktop is that it’s easier to keep cool, since there is more room for powerful fans, which will help the machine have a longer lifetime and maintain optimum performance levels. Additionally, it’s easier to change out parts and upgrade components in a desktop, which will keep your machine from falling behind the constantly increasing demands of the digital world.

If you often need your computer on the go, the choice is simple: laptop. If your need for portability is only occasional and you don’t need much more than a browser or word processor, you may be able to find a cheap tablet or netbook to do the job, and could potentially afford it with the money you save by getting a desktop as your primary computer. Keep in mind that you’ll still have to buy a monitor if one doesn’t come as a bundle with the desktop.

(Note on laptop screens: If you’re planning to use your laptop for mostly work, consider a matte screen, which will have less glare and be easier on the eyes. If your laptop will be a media device, a normal glossy LCD screen should do the job.)

2. Know the processor and what it means

The simplest way to explain the processor is that it’s the brain of the machine. If you want a fast computer that boots up programs in a flash, completes tasks as soon as you start them, and doesn’t keep you waiting, then you want the strongest processor available — and who doesn’t? You just have to know what you’re looking at when you see a processor’s details.

Basic: the short and simple of processors is in the number of cores and the speed (labeled in GHz or Gigahertz) of the processor. The speed of the chip will tell you how much data it can process in how much time, so the bigger the number, the better. The number of cores functions as a multiplier, as the processor is actually a stack of cores that each run at the listed speed (e.g. a single-core 2GHz processor is a lot slower than a four-core 2GHz processor).

Multiple cores can also help with multi-tasking, as each can be working on different tasks. If you don’t use a lot of programs at the same time, you may be content with just one or two cores and don’t need to fork out the extra cash to snag a few more. Make sure to ask how many cores are on the chip and what the clock speed is. Two computers might both say they have an Intel i5 chip, but the number of models that go into the group are many, and their speeds and core counts can be leagues apart.

Advanced: If you want to get into really nitty-gritty bits of the processor, check out the benchmark tests at CPUBenchmark. You can compare a number of different CPUs to see if you’re getting the best one, and even see if you’re getting the best for your money. Also, check out the L1, L2, and L3 cache sizes — these are the closest and fastest memory spaces to the CPU and the bigger they are, the better. You can also see how many threads the core has — again, the more, the merrier.

3. RAM isn’t just a type of goat

Just as the number of processor cores in a computer affects its speed and ability to multitask, the amount of Random Access Memory, or RAM, in a computer can affect just how much multitasking it can handle and how fast it will be. RAM is basically a small, extra-fast form of memory (like L1, L2, or L3 cache, but bigger and slower).

Basic: Nowadays most RAM is measured in gigabytes, and as is often the case, the more, the merrier. By having more RAM, your computer is able to keep more data close at hand, rather than having to go digging around through the slower hard drive for the information it needs. Of course, because RAM is smaller, there is only so much room for data. That’s why it’s useful to have more RAM if you want to keep multiple tasks going at the same time, and to be able to jump between them relatively quickly. If you’re also guilty of having too many web browser windows open at the same time, more RAM will make that a lot easier.

Advanced: There is, of course, a bit more to RAM than just the size of it. If you check out the specifics of the RAM in a computer and see that it’s DDR2-800, you can get a quick sense that this is a faster memory than one labeled DDR2-400, as that last number signifies how many millions of data transfers the RAM can make each second. RAM also has clock speeds, similar to processors, and the faster, the better. However, that speed is limited to the speed of your computer’s motherboard, so if you’re buying RAM separately from your computer, figure out the speed of your motherboard and don’t buy RAM that’s any faster — as it will probably cost you more for no reason — and don’t buy RAM any slower — as it will force your motherboard to run at the slower speed. One final number you can note is in the module name, where you may see something like PC3-8500, which indicates that the memory can transfer around 8,500MB per second — once again, the bigger, the better.

4. Hard drives aren’t hard choices

Every computer needs data storage, and though that is something RAM does, the majority of it will go onto your hard drive. There are typically a few different options you’ll need to consider in the search for a hard drive, but what it really comes down to is how you plan to use your computer.

Basic: If you plan to just have your computer and no peripherals, you may want to opt for the biggest hard drive you can (measured in gigabytes, or terabytes for extra large drives), since all of your files and programs will be stored on the computer. If you don’t plan to have many applications on your computer, and won’t store media on it, then you can opt for a smaller hard drive and save yourself some money. If you can handle a small hard drive but want to it be extra fast and you have the cash, consider going for a solid-state drive, or flash hard drive.

Advanced: The size of your drive is one thing. If it’s a disk drive, the spin speed is another. Naturally, the faster your hard drive disk is spinning, the quicker information can be gathered from it. So, between a 5400rpm drive and a 7200rpm drive, the second would be faster. If you can handle having only a few larger programs installed on your computer at a time, and plan to keep everything else stored on an external device, you can probably get a quick device with a solid-state drive to keep the computer zippy at all times, and still manage to stream high-quality media through a USB connection — some applications may even be able to run from an external hard drive. You’ll also want to pay attention to data transfer bandwidth. The higher, the better.

5. Check your peripherals

The peripherals on your computer are going to be pretty specific to your needs, so you’ll need to think about whether you’ll need them, and just how many of them you want. You may want ten USB ports but not have a care in the world about having a DVD drive. On the other hand, you may do everything online and just want as few holes in your machine as possible for soda to spill into and frazzle the circuitry.

USB: There is, thankfully, a standard that most computer peripherals opt to use, and it can be for anything from mouses and keyboards to hard drives and monitors — heck, you can even plug a guitar in via USB if you’ve found the right cord. A modern version of USB, called USB 3.0, is faster than its predecessors, but there’s an even newer version of USB, called USB Type-C, which offers gigabits of bandwidth and the ability to handle enough current to power a laptop. While USB Type-C will eventually become the single technology that you’ll use to connect all your devices, and is a good thing to have on a new machine, you’ll need to avoid off-brand cables that can fry your brand-new computer.

If you plan to transfer a lot of data, make sure you have a fast USB port— or a fast wireless network. An alternative for some major externals (like CD drives and hard drives) is to get a computer with an eSATA port, which will let you plug in those peripherals on the fly with high data transfer rates.

HDMI: If you’re going to use your machine for entertainment, you’ll probably want an HDMI output. This will allow you to connect it to most modern televisions for a high quality visual display, and it will also run the audio out if you’re planning to use the TV for sound.

SD slot: If you work a lot with photography, an SD slot can be a handy way to get the files from your camera over to your computer. For computers with small hard drives, an SD card can also function as a small, out-of-the-way addition to the computer’s overall memory. For the slightly more savvy users, SD cards can even be used to speed up the system.

Wi-Fi: if you plan to connect to a lot of networks a lot of places and want to do it wirelessly, you’re probably best off getting a built-in Wi-Fi receiver rather than working with some sort of external Wi-Fi device. If you’re running a desktop computer, you can probably get away with running an ethernet cable straight into the computer without being constantly annoyed by the need for a wire to get Internet.

Bluetooth: Just like Wi-Fi, you can get a built-in Bluetooth receiver with your computer, and that may be a smart move if you want to be a true wireless warrior. Whether it’s for sending audio to headphones or to a 7.1 channel surround sound set up that will keep your neighbors on their toes, Bluetooth is a handy way to make those connections easy and tangle-free. It may be worth it for these types of uses, otherwise, you can probably save yourself a few bucks by not seeking it out.

6. Mac OS, Windows, and Linux, oh my!

The short and simple of it is that you should probably stick with what you’re familiar with, as it can be hard to adjust to a new operating system unless you’re ready to put in the work. If you know what Linux is, you probably don’t need to read this section. If you don’t know what Linux is, you almost definitely don’t want it.

If you want an easy-to-use system that keeps most things basic for you, check out Mac. If you like a little bit more control of your computer’s nitty-gritty, you’ll probably have an easier time getting to do that on Windows. If you’re comfortable with an operating system, stay with it. However, it’s worth noting that not all software is available for every operating system; so, if you absolutely need Final Cut for that feature film you’re shooting on the weekend, don’t buy a Windows computer expecting it to run Mac-only software.

7. There’s more to graphics than a sticker on your computer

Lately, computer makers have been tagging stickers on their computers to boast about the AMD or NVIDIA graphics cards they have included in their machines. Unfortunately, those mean thousands of different things, and it’s pretty hard to tell just what.

Basic: If you just want to know whether the card in the computer on the left is better than the one in the computer on the right, you can do a quick search on PassMark’s site for the graphics components in each. Some buzz words to be aware of are “integrated” and “dedicated.” The former is built into the computer’s processor and relies on the computer’s memory — typically this is a lower performance graphics component. A dedicated graphics card will include its own processor and memory, and will tend to be higher-performing — though a very old card might not best modern integrated graphics.

Advanced: If you’re looking into the specifics of graphics processors, you will have to think of them like their own pair of a processor and RAM. This is another case of the more, the merrier. Higher speed, higher capacity RAM in the graphics card will let it handle a more intense graphic load and do it quicker. This will allow for better, more fluid visuals. The card’s processor speed will be similarly important and can be looked at much the same as a computer’s processor. You can dig into the details and see how many shaders it has and what its core speed is, but in the end, it will probably be most valuable to check out a benchmark score that has evaluated its actual performance.

8. Oh, so you want to get into PC gaming?

To play the latest games with the graphics on high (or ultra) and keep a high frame-rate, you’ll be needing to look into a truly high-performance machine. Modern games take up a lot of space, so a big hard drive is a must if you plan on having more than one game installed at a time — you’ll want it to be a fast drive, too. Running those games also takes a lot of processing power, so a heavy-hitting processor will be important. You can do without too many cores in your processor if each is extra-fast, but if you’re planning to play your games and keep other programs open in the background, consider bumping up the core count.

Integrated graphics? Forget about it. Unless you want to sputter out low-quality visuals on the newest games, you’ll need a dedicated graphics card, and a good one at that. You can probably get by with something in the mid-range of graphics cards, but a high-end card is your best bet. Be sure to get plenty of VRAM on that card. When it comes down to making your choice, you’ll still probably be best consulting the benchmarks mentioned on the last page.

Thinking about anything other than Windows? Reconsider. Some games are made available for Mac and Linux, but there will be a great number of games unavailable to you if you aren’t running Windows — though there is the tricky option of dual-booting.

Thinking about a laptop? Reconsider again. As mentioned in the beginning, there is a premium to be paid for cramming high-end hardware into an extra small box, and a PC gaming rig requires a lot of high-end hardware. There are plenty of quality gaming laptops out there, but in most instances, they will be more expensive than an equal desktop. Then there’s the problem of overheating, which a laptop will be much more prone to do. An added benefit of going with a desktop is that you will be able to swap out components or add more when the games’ demands start to trump your computer — upgrading to a new graphics card is much easier in a desktop, and in some cases a second graphics card can be added to share the load. With a little careful shopping, you might be able to grab a gaming rig and a cheap netbook for the same price you would have paid for a gaming laptop.

9. Great, now how do we buy it?

One of the most important things to do when buying a new computer — as with any expensive purchase — is to be very patient. Technology evolves fast, and if you buy a new computer today, you might not have noticed a newer one was set for release tomorrow — and would have likely cost the same as the one you just bought, or made yours less expensive to buy. You could get into a logical loop that has you waiting indefinitely, but choosing the best time to pounce is key.

Check refresh cycles for products. If you know ‘Computer Maker A’ comes out with a new model around the same time every year, expect to get a discount on an old model just before a new one comes out, or wait until the new one is out so that you have the latest technology.

It can also be useful to get friendly with the computer maker’s website, as they often allow you to customize a computer rig with the components you want. On top of it all, you’re much more likely to stumble across an incredible sale if you shop regularly for a good stretch of time instead of just spending the better part of a day to make your pick and purchase it then and there. Also, don’t be afraid to spend a few more bucks to nudge up your computer’s specs – this can be helpful down the road, as it will ensure your computer can handle the more intensive tasks that will only start to show up months and years down the line. If you make the cheapest purchase, you might be looking at buying another new computer much sooner than you would otherwise.

10 awesome things you didn’t know your phone could do

You’ve had your smartphone for a while. But let’s face it: You’ve never read the manual. You take great pride in the fact you know how to use it. Then, it happens.

You see someone do something extraordinary with his or her phone that you did not know was even possible. Friends don’t let friends have smartphone skill envy. Here are some of my favorite secrets buried in your phone settings that you probably don’t know, but will use now.

Note: There are several versions of Android floating around out there. Your phone might not have some of these options, or they might be in slightly different places.

1. Take a screenshot

Have you ever wanted to capture something on your phone’s screen? Maybe it’s a hilarious text from a friend, an interesting Facebook post, or you want to send someone an image to show them how to do something.

iPhone
Press and hold the Home button along with the Sleep/Wake button. You should hear a shutter click. The screenshot will appear in your Camera Roll or Saved Photos section.

Android
Hold the Power and Volume Down buttons at the same time. The image is saved to the “Captured Images” folder in your Gallery app. That only works in Android 4.0 and higher, though. For Android 3.0, 2.3 or earlier, use an app like AirDroid.

2. Block calls and texts

Have you ever had someone who just won’t stop calling or texting you, even after you asked nicely? Here’s how to block them.

iPhone
To block calls on an iPhone with iOS 7 or later, open the Phone or FaceTime app. If the person is already a contact, tap their name, scroll to the bottom of the page and tap Block This Caller. Then tap Block Contact.

If the person isn’t a contact, tap the Info button, then scroll to the bottom of the page and tap Block this Caller. Then tap Block Contact.

If you want to block texts, open the Messages app and tap a message from the person you want to block. Tap Contact in the upper right and then tap the Info button. Scroll to the bottom and tap Block this Caller. Then tap Block Contact.

You can edit your blocked contacts later at these locations:

Settings>>Phone>>Blocked

Settings>>Messages>>Blocked

Settings>>FaceTime>>Blocked

Android
On Android, go to Settings>>Call settings>>Call block. Under “Incoming calls” tap “Call block list” and then tap Create. You can enter a number, or tap the picture icon to find the number in your Contacts list or in your call logs.

If you don’t see these steps or want more blocking options, check out these call- and text-blocking apps.

3. Use a real password

iPhone and Android both default to a 4-digit PIN for unlocking the phone. That’s OK as long as you don’t use something simple like 0000 or 1234. However, I know some people who want even more security.

iPhone
To set a real password on an iPhone, go to Settings>>Passcode. From there, swipe off the option that says Simple Passcode. Here, you can set your passcode with letters and special characters for better phone security.

Android
Go to Settings>>Lock screen and tap Screen lock. You can set what level of security you want, from a simple swipe to a password. Select Password and type in the password that you want. It should have a mix of letters, numbers and special characters to be really safe.

4. See text easier

Having a hard time reading things on your phone’s small screen? Bump up the font size to something a bit easier to see.

iPhone
Go to Settings>>General>>Accessibility and turn on Bold Text and Larger Text. You can choose either one or both, depending on your preferences. You will need to restart your phone for Bold Text to take effect.

Android
Go to Settings>>Accessibility. Under Vision, tap Font size and set it to Large. Some phones include an even larger Huge option.

5. Read things out loud

Want to keep your eyes off your phone for a bit? Have it read things to you out loud.

iPhone
Go to Settings>>General>>Accessibility and turn on VoiceOver. You have the option to practice with VoiceOver, set the speaking rate and more.

You will need to do some playing around to get used to it. For example you can touch and drag your fingers around the home screen to have it read what’s there. Double tap to activate an app, while one tap will give you details about it.

VoiceOver will read directions to you in Maps, have your camera tell you how many people are in your shot, and get spoken photo descriptions. You can also hand write notes and letters on the screen and have VoiceOver translate your messages into text for Mail and other apps.

Android
Go to Settings>>Accessibility and tap TalkBack. If you don’t see it, you can download it from the Google Play store.

Turn it on and your phone will read whatever you touch on the screen and incoming notifications. Hint: To perform a regular swipe gesture, you have to use two fingers instead of one.

To adjust your TalkBack settings, go to Settings>>Accessibility and tap Text-to-Speech options. You can adjust the voice engine and speed rate.

Then go to Settings and turn on Hands-free mode. This will tell you who is calling or messaging.

6. Customize alert vibration patterns

You’ve set a custom ringtone for each of your contacts, but that doesn’t help when you have your phone on vibrate. Fortunately, you can create custom vibration patterns as well.

iPhone
Go to Settings>>Sounds>>Ringtone>>Vibration. You can tap out patterns to record. Or, you can go into your contacts list and hit Edit and select the Vibration option for each contact.

Android
Go to Contacts and tap on a contact name. Under Vibration Pattern, tap Default and choose a preset pattern. Or tap the Create button and tap on the screen to create your own pattern.

If you don’t have this built in, there are third-party apps like Vybe that can do this as well.

7. Flash camera LED for notifications

Need a quiet alert about notifications and don’t want to use vibrate? Have notifications trigger your phone’s LED camera flash instead. Just make sure you turn this off or keep your phone hidden when you go to the movies.

iPhone
Go to Settings>>General>> Accessibility and turn on “LED Flash for Alerts.” Now every time you get a notification, your phone’s rear camera will flash.

Android
Go to Settings>>Accessibility and turn on “Flash notification.”

8. Better ways to take pictures

Tapping your phone’s screen to take a picture sounds good in theory, but in practice it can make shots a little shaky. Here are some better options.

iPhone
Hold your camera in landscape mode and press the Volume Up button on the side.

Android
Open the camera app and tap the gear to see the settings. Scroll down to Voice control and turn it on. Now you can take pictures with the commands, “Capture,” “Shoot,” “Smile” and “Cheese.”

9. Take multiple pictures at once

If you’re taking pictures of a moving object, squirming kid or people who tend to blink, you often want to take a bunch of pictures at once.

iPhone 5s/5c
Open the Camera app. Tap and hold the shutter release button on the screen – or press and hold the Volume Up button – and the camera will start taking multiple pictures. Release the button when you want to stop.

The iPhone 5s can take up to 10 pictures a second. It will group the photos for you automatically so you can quickly find the best ones.

Android
Open the Camera app. Tap the gear icon to open the settings and turn Burst Shot on. Then tap and hold the shutter release button and the phone will take multiple images until you release the button – or it hits the preset limit for your phone. The photos will be grouped for you in your gallery.

10. Turn off music automatically

A lot of people use their phone to listen to music as they go to sleep, or as they’re doing a project. But you don’t want it running forever and draining your battery.

iPhone
Go to the Clock app and click on “Timer,” then “When Timer Ends.” From here, scroll all the way down to the bottom of the screen and select “Stop Playing.”

Android
Open the music player and go to Settings. Look for “Music auto off” and set it to however long you want the music to play. There are also third-party apps like Sleep Timer available.

The Evolution of 3D Glasses and 3D Technology

Most of us, at one time or another, have been fascinated by some form of 3D technology. Whether it be the red-and-blue comics in the back of a magazine or a stunning IMAX 3D film, there is something inherently captivating about seeing flat images come to life in vibrant three-dimensionality.

But how do those red-and-blue plastic glasses actually work? What about those vivid, full-color movies you’ve seen at Disneyworld or in an IMAX theater? And what does the future hold in store for 3D technology?

The Earliest Forms of 3D Technology

The earliest forms of 3D glasses were not glasses at all. In the mid-19th century, Charles Wheatstone discovered that simply viewing a pair of similar (but not exact) images side-by-side can give the impression of three-dimensionality. The images are taken by two cameras that are slightly separated. This way, the photographs mimic what each one of our two eyes would see in reality.

This method is far from ideal, however. It requires people to “cross” their eyes, which some people cannot do or find uncomfortable.

In the late 19th and early 20th century, the stereoscope was invented to address these issues. The stereoscope used lenses that merged the two distinct images into one, giving the effect of a 3D scene without straining the eyes.

The stereoscope was a popular novelty in bars and arcades until around the 1930s, when film became the dominant media for entertainment. Surprisingly, even today most people are probably familiar with the technology. The View-Master, a ubiquitous childhood toy for over 65 years, is a version of the stereoscope. “It is truly a phenomenon that has transcended the toy box to achieve pop culture status,” according to Chuck Scothon, senior vice president of marketing at Fisher-Price.

Those Pesky Red and Blue Lenses

When most people hear the term ‘3D,’ they don’t think of stereoscopes or View-Masters. Instead, flimsy plastic glasses with red and blue lenses usually come to mind. These glasses, when used with special photographs called anaglyph images, create the illusion of depth.

Traditionally, anaglyph images were taken using two slightly separated cameras, one with a red filter and one with a blue filter. Recently, the filtering is being done afterwards with a processing program like Adobe Photoshop. In both cases, the images are then combined to form a single picture, or anaglyph image. When viewed without 3D glasses, these images will look blurry and discolored.

Using a red and blue lens ‘tricks’ the brain into seeing a 3D image. Each eye sees a slightly different image. The eye covered by the red lens will perceive red as “white” and blue as “black,” and vice versa for the other eye. This disparity mimics what each eye would see in reality, as with most 3D technology.

Because the traditional red-blue glasses are inexpensive to produce, anaglyph images remain popular in modern media. Anaglyph images can be found everywhere from Disney’s feature film Spy Kids 3D to the latest Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition.

State of the Medium

While anaglyph images prevail in print media, a new technology has eclipsed the venerable red-and-blue lenses in motion pictures. Relying on the optical phenomenon of polarization, these new 3D glasses allow for more accurate color viewing than anaglyph images.

To understand polarization, think of a garden hose. If you shake the hose up and down, you will generate vertical ‘waves’ that also move up and down. We would say this wave is vertically polarized. Similarly, shaking the hose left to right will generate waves we call horizontally polarized. Light is a wave made up of electric and magnetic fields that vary in time and, like the garden hose, it can be made to be vertically or horizontally polarized.

Like with anaglyph images, special glasses are needed to view these new 3D movies. One lens allows only vertically polarized light to pass through, while the other allows only horizontally polarized light. Two projectors show slightly different images, using light polarized in one or the other direction. In this way, each eye sees a different image,just like you would if you were viewing the scene in real life.

Because only the polarization and not the color of light is changed, polarized lenses produce much more lifelike images than their red-and-blue predecessors.

This polarized lens system is used at Disneyworld and Universal Studios and in IMAX 3D theaters across the country.

How to Enable a USB Port

The Universal Serial Bus (USB) is an extremely popular computer hardware interface introduced sometime in 1995 to provide computer users with a way of attaching secondary hardware devices that capitalize on the Plug-and-Play functionality of the Operating System. By 1997, almost every new computer system that rolled out of the assembly line was equipped with a USB port which was already supported as early as the Microsoft Windows 98 Operating System platform and has since then replaced all other connectivity standards. One USB port allows for the connection of literally hundreds of interchangeable devices like keyboards, modems, joysticks, mouse pointing devices, printers, external storage, digital cameras, and scanners among others. The presence of the USB port boosted the popularity of Plug-and-Play and has been closely associated with the term hot swappable which referenced devices that can be connected and disconnected without requiring the computer system to be turned off or rebooted.

Materials Needed:

– Computer with USB port
– Microsoft Windows XP Operating System
– motherboard documentation

Step 1

In some instances, in order to prevent unauthorized copying of data to USB-based storage devices, the USB port is disabled intentionally. To enable the USB port, click on the ‘Start’ button and right click on the ‘My Computer’ option.

Step 2

Choose the ‘Manage’ option from the context menu to open the Computer Management window. Click on the ‘System Tools’ category on the left panel. This will display all connected devices of the computer system at the right panel.

Step 3

Click on the ‘+’ sign beside the Universal Serial Bus controllers option to expand it. Right click on the USB Root hub and select ‘Enable’.

Step 4

Click on the ‘File’ menu and select ‘Exit’ to close the Computer Management window. Reboot the computer system to make sure the changes take effect.

Step 5

An alternative method for the Microsoft Windows environment is to click on the ‘Start’ button and select the ‘Control Panel’ option.

Step 6

Click on the ‘Performance and Maintenance’ category and select the ‘System’ option. This will open the System Properties window.

Step 7

Choose the ‘Hardware’ tab and click the ‘Device Manage’ button. In the Device Manager window, expand the option for the Universal Serial Bus category.

Step 8

Select the USB Root hub entry and click on the ‘Enable’ icon on the toolbar at the upper part of the Device Manager window. Click on the ‘File’ menu and select ‘Exit’.

Step 9

To enable the USB port from the Windows Registry, click on the ‘Start’ button and select the ‘Run’ option.

Step 10

Type regedit in the Open box and click on the ‘OK’ button to bring up the Registry Editor window.

Step 11

Expand the SYSTEM category under HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE. Click on the ‘+’ beside CurrentControlSet and choose Services.

Step 12

Click the UsbStor option. This should display a list of registry keys in the right pane window. Double click on the ‘Start’ key and replace its value with 3. Make sure that Hexadecimal is selected.

Step 13

Click on the ‘OK’ button. Exit the Registry Editor to complete the process of enabling the USB port.

Step 14

A more direct method is to reboot the computer system and enter the BIOS setting configuration window. Refer to the motherboard’s documentation to identify how to access the BIOS settings and enable the USB port.

Teenager invents phone charger which generates energy from the human body

A solution to that eternal search for a plug Credit:

Hand Energy

A teenager has invented and developed a phone charger which uses energy from the human body to get the energy to charge your phone.

Hand Energy, the brainchild of 19-year-old inventor Michael Vaga, allows you to charge your phone simply by rotating your hand, which activates the device’s gyroscope to produce energy that can then either be stored or used to immediately charge a mobile.

The device would be ideal for someone spending a long time away from a power socket Credit: HandEnergy

The kickstarter, which hoped to raise €50,000, raised €71,333 from people hoping to get their hands on one.

Now, the inventor from Minsk, Belarus, is ready to make and send out the innovative portable chargers.

He said: “With each rotation of your hand, the rotor speed increases significantly and generates more power. The average speed of the rotor is 5,000rpm.

“We translate the mechanical energy you put in into electrical energy and this means you can charge your device.”

The invention took over a year to develop, and Mr Vaga has said it is ideal for people who spend a long time away from a power source.

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It takes between 40 minutes and one hour to fully charge the batteries of the HandEnergy device.

This speed is reduced by 30 per cent if a phone is being charged at the same time.

Mr Vaga said the charger is good as an emergency source of energy, but also it is an example of clean energy.

HandEnergy will be available from March 2017 with an expected retail price of €99 (£84).

Bluetooth 5: What you need to know about the new wireless technology

The new Bluetooth is twice as fast and has quadruple the range Credit:

Bluetooth

8 December 2016 • 10:43am

An update to the decades-old technology Bluetooth was officially adopted this week, offering wireless connections with faster pairing and a longer range.

Bluetooth 5, which has been accepted as the official standard for the connection technology by the industry body Bluetooth SIG, is expected to boost the creation of wireless connected gadgets, part of the internet of things.

The advancement comes as the industry for connected devices is expected to grow to 48 billion installed worldwide by 2021, according to ABI Research. One third of these gadgets will have Bluetooth capability.

Here’s what you need to know about Bluetooth 5.

How is Bluetooth 5 different?

Bluetooth 5 is twice as fast as its predecessor and can connect devices at quadruple the range, making it more reliable for use outside and around the whole of a house.

The bandwidth on Bluetooth 5 is 2 Mbps up from 1 Mbps, which means devices with the new standard will be able to transfer twice as much data, as well as making it quicker to send and receive information.

This means devices will be able to download updates in less time, and export collected information, for example from a sensor, at fast speeds.

A longer range, of up to four times that of Bluetooth 4.2 with low energy, means that smart home devices such as security cameras will be able to cover the entirety of a house. Improved ability to detect and prevent interference from other devices helps improve signal too.

“Whole-home and building coverage, as well as new use cases for outdoor, industrial and commercial applications will be a reality,” said Mark Powell, executive director of the Bluetooth SIG.

Bluetooth 5 is also more efficient in its use of broadcast channels, which have become crowded on the 2.4 Ghz band. “These broadcasting channel improvements will enable developers to create experience-based apps that can bridge the physical and virtual worlds,” said the Bluetooth SIG.

The 800 per cent increase in the broadcast channel capacity will help improve connectionless services such as location-relevant information and navigation.

When can I use it?

Now the technology is the new standard, device makers are advised to fit their upcoming gadgets with it. The Bluetooth SIG estimates that products made for Bluetooth 5 will go on sale within two to six months.

A version of the technology is back compatible with some devices. The low energy version of Bluetooth 5 will work with any gadget running Bluetooth 4.2, 4.1 and 4.0 that has the low energy feature. Those that use Basic Rate or Enhanced Data Rate Core Configuration will also be compatible with Bluetooth 5.